APRIL-- SPRING FLOWERS AND PIGEON POWERS

Old birds season is upon us and many are racing or are about to. Power building is a part of the goal for the long season ahead. Do not forget that creatine, carnitine and ATP muscle builder products take time to work on the animal, so start your system three weeks before the desired time for the 300 mile races to begin. I have used Gem Flight Fuel and Vydex Jet Stream, both excellent products with a proven track record. After a three week program of four times a week, you’ll notice the body reserve while handling your birds to improve greatly. You should continue to administer this twice a week in your maintenance racing program. Your feeding program should also be considered, especially when the longer distance races are upon you; added corn and raw Spanish peanuts are another method to help with the body reserves. Amino acids toward the end of the week are also recommended, and I use A-Lyte or Amino Stress.

Ivomec the birds for the dreaded air sac mite that inhibits their form. Air Sac mites and worms are a sure sign when the birds remain skeletal when handling, so be sure to treat them. One treatment you could use is the Medpet worm-out tablets (code med034). I follow up with a two day treatment of baking soda; I use two teaspoons per gallon of water. Your droppings will firm up and the down feathers should appear on the droppings.

Canker treatments every three weeks are a normal cycle unless you have a microscope to check for this ailment. I have seen the Tri-Coli tablets (VP003) work outstandingly well. Also, if you administer them on the following night of the race, you may want to use flock treatment products, such as Med015 or Med037. Both of these treatments are in the Zole product's family and work very well.

Respiratory treatments are used before and during the season if again, you do not have a microscope to do a throat swab. Then a normal routine would be every three weeks during the season. If you have a come back race this would be a good time to do this with a full five day treatment. Some signs to look for are a wide rounded breath hole, an actively breathing/laboring hard, color of throat, color of the lower rim of the beak, color of the tip of the tongue and the slime. Also take notice of potential air bubbles in the outer perimeter of the eye. As well as, the body skeletal with no ballooning effect, mouths open when returning from exercise. Lastly, be sure to check for lack of down feathers on droppings, after checking in the morning from a good night's rest. When handling the birds, put their beak into your ear and listen for crackling sounds. Sometimes you can do this by holding the bird's nostril with your thumb and index finger for about thirty seconds; listening to the sounds is beneficial in determining respiratory ailments. All of these are methods to use without a microscope to verify certain ailments.

Pseudo Malaria is wide spread in the western and southern areas, so I would treat this with a ten day (or more) treatment of Medpet Primaquin (Med044). I have found that this enhances my bird's overall performance and have experienced no negative issues with it. I follow up with Formula 72 or Red Cell, both are full of Iron and benefit the bird greatly after treatment.

My recommendation with training is to have the birds on a seven day cycle. If the birds are not coming home from the race, then a hundred mile trainer for the rest of them is beneficial for the longer races ahead. This will prepare the birds physically and mentally. The birds will expect this treatment after awhile. You will be pleasantly surprised with the results seen in their performance.

Breeders and young ones need special attention during this time of the year, so review them, as I know your focus may be on the old bird team. Most of the breeders are on multiple rounds at this time of the year so viewing the nest box for any concerns, like excess water around the nest bowl or just stressed out parents is important. Rejuvenation with vitamins and supplements during this time is necessary. Checking the weight of each bird with a quick handling will give you a read if things are not right. I would administer each one with a Fabry Ideal pill while going through the breeders. In some cases you can give them a Spartrix or Tri-Coli pill. Also, sometimes separation is a good idea for a week and then you can make decisions to change mates or re-mate the same pair; this will help the stressed out pair. I use a product from Jedd’s called Breeder Protein Pack, a high power protein grain mixture (20.5%), when breeders are feeding the youngsters. The cost is $19.95 plus a shipping rate of $15.50 in a large flat rate priority box anywhere in America. I mix 30% of this to my standard mix during the feeding time, which helps with the feather growing process. I use a product from GEM called The-Pax about three days a week on my second round of youngsters and was very delighted with the results. Another product I use from GEM is Impact, which I always administer on Fridays. I do this on Friday only because this is the day I am programmed to administer the product.

This is a personal story from over 40 years ago regarding B-12 vitamin and when hired by Mr. Will Waterhouse of Bekaert fame: one day I was noticing the breeders with what seemed to be a crust on the side of the beak and was concerned what it was. Knowing it wasn’t a respiratory problem and all else on the bird looked well, out of the corner of my eye I noticed a bird eating droppings and annoyingly said, “You got to be kidding me! What’s up with that?!” I thought it had to be a deficiency of some kind, so I viewed our personal library of pigeon books and read in one written by Old Hand about this issue and the result was B-12 deficiency, so I added pellets to the mix after making sure it had the added B-12 on them, and the problem then was cured. My understanding is that B-12 is a needed supplement by all birds and it doesn’t come in feed or water. The birds digest and simulate it and then excrete in their droppings, which is the main reason they were eating them. Now, to this day I give the birds a B-12 supplement one day a week throughout the year. My advice to you is having this in your program of management!

Your environment is special and it doesn’t have to look like a castle, but when entering the smell and sounds are of joy to the birds and you. You can hear their contentment from their cooing and activity in the loft. They just glow and when handling, the bloom flies all over your shirt like a round flour bomb went off on it. The smell is clean with no sourness in the loft. The birds like dark little corner areas to relax and to feel secure with no intruders bothering them. Some fanciers put a shade or cover half of the nest box for keeping the birds in the dark, if flying a natural system. Some double widowhood fliers even use a curtain that they pull down to keep the birds calm during the season. Air movement is very important with turbulent air with no drafts over the perches or nest boxes. Creating the proper loft is essential; validation is when you fly well the entire season in any weather conditions and the change of season doesn’t affect your performance. One trick is when changing your grit container. If it comes out in clumps, it means your loft is too damp. Take a cigarette into the loft and watch the smoke pass through the air which will give you a pattern to adjust for airflow.

Giving your birds the best chance to win is your part, then it’s up to the birds to perform to the best of there ability. At the end of the season ask yourself if you did everything possible to achieve victory. Consider this when your culling the team.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

SEASON REMINDERS-- JANUARY

BREEDING TIME

"This is my basic breeding time method that has been used successfully for over 40 years"

Many birds are paired or going to be soon. Supplements are essential at this time, such as, Calcium for egg production and all purpose vitamins. Remember to check and see if you cut the feathers around the fecal area well, as I previously stated in the reminders. If not, take scissors and trim them up a little closer. I normally would think it would be the male’s problem for not fertilizing the egg, but it could be just the contact when mating.  Sometimes I use the Medpet cock fertility pill every other day during this time until the hen lays her second egg;  wheat germ oil is also beneficial on the feed.

When a hen is not laying eggs, I use a product called Fish Mox: code number 1124 from Jedds.com, which is a 250 mg capsule of Amoxicillin. I dump out ½ of the contents and refill the other up with pink Vita Mineral powder (DES003), giving the treatment for 10 days, a pill a day.  If you're not experienced giving a pill to a bird, just dip the pill in water before dosing the bird. Doing so helps the bird swallow the pill. This has worked very well for me and others for treating a bacterial infection in the egg track of a hen. I separate the hen at this time for treatment and re-mate her soon after treatment.

Nest material is important and using the nest pads is always beneficial at this time. The added warmth and softness can stop breakage of eggs and definitely stops crooked keels. It also prevents leg deformity, especially once a young has hatched.  I use tobacco stems, straws, or even pine needles, but I am careful when using the latter, for mice or rodents may have urinated on them. I would recommend washing them and letting those dry before using the nest bowls.

Checking the eggs at about five days old is done at this time by taking a flash light in to the loft and holding it in the upright position. One by one I hold each egg over the flashlight to see if blood vessels are starting to form.  If I find that no vessels have formed I may wait another couple of days and view again. If not, I toss the eggs and start the pair over again.  Be careful when doing this procedure with some of these couples. They can be so defensive that you may break an egg when retrieving them from under the bird or putting them back.  I sometimes make some notes about the color or surface area of the egg shell at this time.  If I find a rough surface, I may use a calcium pill for that particular hen because they may be calcium deficient.  Jedd's part number is 1262 and I give a ½ pill per hen at this time, at three different times before she lays.   

Grit and pick stones are essential in my program to give the birds the added calcium needed to grow the egg.  I also sprinkle any of the fine powdered Vita Minerals on the grain about every other day.  I’ve used lettuce and carrots in the past on a one day a week basis, but now I use a product called Carrot Corn, a vegetable formulated pellet.  I also use a product called 5 Star Grit and mix at least every other day on the feed. The product is a combination of grits, pellets, seeds, egg food and minerals of all kinds;  remember to give fresh grit daily.  I use smaller containers and add fresh mix to them everyday; which the birds go for readily. I use a mineral powder, which is a replacement for any loss of electrolytes, a product from JeddS call Mineral salt (#1123).  Remember this quote, “Bring the outside in” for these prisoner birds.

After hatching, I sometimes use a Versele Laga pellet called Success corn for the first week of the parent birds milking stage.  This helps at this particular time with its 25% protein and easily digestible pellet; it is very good for the new hatchlings.

Water supplements are necessary, and I have described in my previous Season Reminders that I use something in the water daily.  B-12 & Iodine are beneficial at this time, along with Calcium liquid.  Some type of all purpose vitamins twice a week, along with a breeding formula. Breeders edge is one that is full of amino acids. VBG (Avian Solution) or Bragg’s apple cider vinegar is some times used at the same time with your vitamin supplement. Electrolytes are given when the babies are starting to be fed a grain mixture once or twice a week.

The grains given vary with the cycle of the birds.  My basic mixture is a 16% protein with a candy treat mix of about 10%.  When the babies are in the milking stage, about the first week of their lives, I use the basic mixture mentioned above, with added Safflower at about 20% with some pellets added in.  When the babies are now being fed a grain mixture, I use the basic mixture mentioned above with a product from Jedds named Breeders Protein Pack, which is a 25# bag for about $19. Then you should mix 1/3^rd of this mixture to the basic mix until out of the nest. This will increase the protein content at this stage of their lives and gives them and the parents the added protein for the feather growth needed. In the past, I have added some of the protein pellets to the mixture, but the birds will eat the grain before the pellets, so I got disgusted after a few weeks and gave that up.  Remember the Jedds 5 Star Grit I use has a round pellet in it and is loaded with all that’s needed. When using a pellet, I like the round shape ones. Also, I think the birds are fooled thinking they're a type of pea. 

Special touch sometimes used, such as Fabry pills, given to the babies in the nest to help the development until taken out of the nest. In some cases, some pairs will have a wet nest around the nest bowl, which is usually caused by the parents drinking excess water. I think this is due to lack of salt or an electrolyte imbalance, so the use of the mineral salt and electrolytes are beneficial at this time and usually correct the problem.  I have at times when all the birds are on eggs, given them a five day treatment of Medizole (Med 037) for canker, well before hatching time. 

If a nest is wet you must keep it dry and figure what the problem is, especially when only one pair is showing this result.  Most of time it’s a result of too much water intake so the above steps should be effective with this, but please clean the box out and use a drying powder such as floor white from Natural code  (#1504)

I hope and wish you all a good season and remember: whomever makes the least mistakes wins the race!

Happy New Year.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

DECEMBER-- EARLY BREEDING

"Selecting and  pairing birds up is done by getting my #1 best male first and then selecting his hen from all my breeder hens."

This concept is desired by many in the modern racing pigeon world today. Living out West is much easier than other parts of the country at this time of year with the weather conditions as they are. In California, we can breed at the beginning of December with not too much of a problem, but other cold and wet zones need to create an environment suited for this early breeding time. Many fanciers use heating elements on the floors like such  used in pig farms in order to elevate the temperature. I even know of some fanciers who breed in their basements and garages using individual nest boxes or cages with heating units. I also would use nest felts (Jedds#L075) in the bowls for warmth. This beneficial for the youngsters for heat and also helps them keep their toe nails in the fabric of the pad which helps prevent deformed legs and crooked keels.

The reason for early breeding to make sure birds are sexually mature for the young bird season and to get them through the molt. Most use a light system before and during the breeding period and again when young are weaned and placed in the young bird section. Some fanciers even mate up when the moon is at a certain cycle like the farmers plant seed.

How to Prepare when Pairing Mates

When pairing I trim each bird (Hen & Cock) around the fecal area with a pair scissors about one inch diameter for better contact when birds are treading. I also give each bird a Fabry Ideal pill (Jedds #FP006) at the time of paring. I have a calcium gluconate liquid (Jedds #1168) or (Md048) in the drinking water at the time, intervals are every other day and I give them Iodine (Jedds #GEM020) at least once a week. I use combination grit such as Jedds 5 Star Mineral Grit on the feed everyday. I use a small bowl of grit for the community breeders and change daily. I have used wheat germ oil on the feed. I also use tobacco stems (Jedds #YA004) I believe this helps the hens to be amorous and settle them down to the nest bowl and her new mate. Vitamins and Amino Acids are given on the feed or the water also. You must do everything possible to get those golden eggs. This is where it all starts.

Mate Selection

Selecting and  pairing birds up is done by getting my #1 best male first and then selecting his hen from all my breeder hens. I already have a good idea who to breed him to since I’ve been studying the breeder list for some time. After the selection is made, I then go to the second best male and continue in the same way. I do watch the age of the pair and try to keep it within the 10 year time frame. For instance: I pair a 7-year-old with a mate no older than a 3 year old. (10 years between them). For birds bred for stock, this rule isn’t as important.

I do my best to compensate pairs to get the most balanced animal for flying purposes. I first mate them for flying then I re-mate for potential breeders after they raise a few rounds of youngsters. By this method, I’m able to maintain the lines within the families and continue to cross in generations forward for that hybrid vigor. I’ve proven this many times over by studying my breeding records.

Useful Tips Once Birds are in Nest Boxes

Now I lock in each pair in the nest box and if you’re an established loft you have some of the males who already own that nest box from previous years. I do leave the cocks in the same box if possible. This makes pairing and teaching the new pairs much easier in a community loft so at the end of the day, most of the pairs have been selected. I then start letting one pair out at a time to fly out into the aviary and check out all that’s happening. This calms the pair down and I leave them out about 20 minutes or so, then I lock that pair up and turn out another for them to calm down and study their new surroundings. Also, no two pairs are out together. At the second day I may have two pair out at the same time, but usually with only established males who own their nest box from the previous year. I have an 8-pair compartment breeding section along with 6 individual breeding compartments. This community method is done until the hen lays her set of eggs and by that time with the cock bird driving the hen the only thing on his mind his chasing her back into the box where I have feed for both. I have a community feeder for all the 8 pairs to select from (along with common water bowl) but as I said before, the males won’t even let the hens eat outside their nest box. After the final eggs have been laid. I then start to turn out 2 to 3 pair at a time and soon begin to locate their nest box without any hassles. Then all is much easier, but the first 2 weeks for you are tough.

Supplements Used in Water

I have something in the water all the time, but no medication. It changes with the bird’s condition and needs. I add, at least every other day, calcium liquid during the first pairing cycle. I use a breeding formula at least twice a week. I also use Gem product called Impact one day a week and use Bragg's AppleCider Vinegar mixed with Jedds Grape Sugar. Additionally, VBG Avian Solution is given with many of the supplements. Mixture of many grits is given fresh daily. I use Nature Block pick stone crumbled up with the grit daily. B-12 Liquid (#9001) is given once a week. Always make sure to give electrolytes once youngsters are about 10 days old. Since breeders for some reason begin to eat a lot of grit and drink in excess when pumping the young, a wet nest can occur so with the use of electrolytes (#1136) the problem lessens. I use More Wins or WinsMore for my all purpose vitamin use, again, at least once a week. 

Feeding

I feed twice a day and change the water each time along with the additives. My mixture is a about a 16% protein with small corn until the eggs hatch and then I increase the protein with the Breeder Protein Pack from Jedds, which is a 25 lb bag composed of different peas, vetch and mung beans. This is given at a 1/3^rd mixture with your standard feed each meal. 

Additional Medication and Life after Weaning 

I have also used Fabry Ideal Pills for the babies in the nest on a continued basis if you have time to spend. I bathe the breeder birds once a week. I use the web bowls with the liners and tobacco stems. I would recommend a pill treatment for canker after the 2^nd round of eggs and use either Spartrix or Tri-Coli Stop Pills for one day, when birds are setting the eggs and not when feeding. I have a nursery section for the babies. When they're about 23 days old, I remove them from their parents and they start their life knowing early how to drink and eat on the floor of the section where no bullies will beat them up. I have garlic or VBG in the water containers for the babies to locate easier and the standard feed with peas is used at this time. I use the Ideal pills when moving them into the nursery section and dunk their heads in the water bowl at that time.

My method has been to always change parings each year searching for the pre-potent bird in the loft and when you find him or her use as the foundation bird and then you will have something. This will start your way to the top.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

NOVEMBER-- PREPARING FOR THE UPCOMING YEAR

"This is the time of the year to re-think or evaluate your past year's results and take action"

While fresh on your mind please write down what worked for you and which items you need to change. The good and bad need to be noted so you may not make the same mistake again; the fancier who makes the least mistakes usually wins. The other issue to remember is most of the time, the best young birds are your best old birds, but did you give them a proper chance to perform? Many flyers are beaten before the season begins because of the preparations not given to the team. It’s very easy to blame the birds, but please look within yourself to see if you gave them a proper chance to perform. If you need to hold some over for old birds, do so.

Lofts need to be reviewed. Check the ventilation. It may be you started out the season well with the temperatures normal to high and then the cold dampness began and your performances diminished. Weather conditions will change the form in your birds. Key to a winning loft is air spinning and moving out, but not a draft over the perches or nest boxes. Go into your loft with a lit cigarette or cigar and check the air flow to see the directions the smoke leaves the loft. Changes may need to be done to the loft.

Breeder birds need to be reviewed and scrutinized to judge the past performances. Check to see how many birds raised out of pair and how many are left and did any do well in the races or show pen.

In racing, give the breeders two seasons to prove them and if nothing has resulted get rid of them, but first check and see if you ever mated them to a proven good one. Sometimes this will give you the answer for why they didn’t do well. Many times one of the parent birds is worthy and the other is marginal, so before the culling begins please check this out. Many fanciers mate a good one to a fair one and breed more mediocre. If by nothing else take the best 6 males and the best 6 hens and mate them together, with this your odds are much better.

Let me get back on track now. Handle your birds and feel the muscle and vitality in each bird. You can feel the electricity in the bird, like the blood is flowing like a river through them. Check the spirit of the bird like Piet DeWeerd would do by pulling the beak, although there are tricks to that also. Some birds may let you pull the beak and others don’t. It could be they will let you do it at there own will. Like an arm wrestler, if he wants you to pull his arm down he will let you but if not, then good luck. I found some of birds need to be held loosely to give them the feeling of being able to get away. Let one foot loose then try pulling the beak, some will give you more fight this way. Some fanciers can do the same test by pulling upward on the wing butts when holding the bird in hand and the resistance felt gives them the same spirit test. Some veteran fanciers can look at the head of the bird and read the same characteristics as given above. I’ve witnessed some fanciers with a squeeze of the wing butt joint muscle with there thumb and index finger to see the reaction of the head in pain moving back and forth to test them for a reaction, thinking this another good way. I haven’t felt this method has any merit for picking the good birds.

Go in your loft and handle the performance birds for the last year and compare them to the losers and see what the difference is. Sometimes its so glaring you can’t miss it. Check the muscle development, vent attachment, outer wing lengths, throat color and quietness of breathing, size of each, wing butt thickness, forearm length, vitality, keel bone thickness, feather, head shape, sharpness of eye and overall alertness. You will gain much needed knowledge that will help you in the near future. Your best bird for the series will be aerodynamic and balanced for sure. This gives you the standard to look for.

When paring, your goal is to get the best balanced bird for its easier for them to perform in the air when the distance races are upon us. Think of compensation to achieve this goal; always mate with this in mind when paring up the birds. A mid size bird with balance and soft muscle with loads of vitality is the goal.

I mate up on paper first, trying to remember the way they handle and paring them the way I remember them. Then I go out again and again and decide which pair to couple. Many times I’ve changed my mind after handling the birds. Remember, this is great way to imprint on your mind the breeder birds you have in your loft.

If unhappy with your breeding birds then begin searching out some better ones. I can only suggest when buying a breeder from a known seller ask him if the parents have bred winners or are they winners. If you can review the pedigree then check on all generations to see if parents, G-parents and G-G- Parents are winners or have bred winners. If all have proven themselves then the percentage has risen on said bird. If the seller is a responsible breeder he will give you a guarantee of satisfaction on arrival. He cannot guarantee you the bird will breed a winner, but the bird should have all the necessary tools to be a good breeding bird. There are just too many variables in pigeon flying to make a statement as such.

It all starts in the breeding loft and many are defeated right from the beginning without changing anything. You must learn and adjust or you will stagnate and forever be in the bottom third of your race sheet.

This is the month to treat the breeders even if all is healthy to the naked eye. I like to treat for canker before breeding time for 5 consecutive days with one of the many canker medications. I also give the breeding hens a 10 day treatment of Oxytetracyline (Terramycin) with a follow up of some type of probiotics. If all else is looking well then I’m ready in early part of December to mate up the birds.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

OCTOBER-- MOTIVATION TIME

Dedicated to mostly the Racing Fanciers, this is the time of year for the racing enthusiast since the money is on the line!  If all is equal like your competitors such as training & health, then the key to beating them is by motivating the birds to arrive quicker.  If you're not already flying a separated system, then you must change or you won’t win on a regular basis.  Show old birds to your young bird section on the day of shipping about an hour before crating, to arouse both hens & cocks or take some flat boards and lean them against a corners of the section with a nest bowl inside.  Make up some small boxes and set in the loft to get there sexual excitement going. Some will take to it and then observe who is the most excited.

Training should be done in smaller groups of 3-5 birds separated. One day let the cocks out first then the hens.  If possible, train them late or early evening only about 20 miles to get the speed up; you’ll find they fly about 60 mph or faster.  They understand the sun is going down so they bust butt to get home. Separate the sexes if possible with a solid divided partition and play a radio in the loft to muffle the sounds of calling there mates. They have super hearing and you verify this by listing to them in the middle of the night calling one another. That’s a bad sign, so steps need to be taken, such as the radio playing and darkening the loft at night. Street light with it glaring in to the loft can be upsetting also, so an easy fix is lay a sheet or something over the front of the window until sunrise. Change can be good but don’t change the regular routine of feeding that must remain the same.

Weather changes getting cooler at this time of year and raw Spanish peanuts or hulled sunflower seed should be given to help them with the longer distance races. Higher fat content at this time of year is beneficial. Both best kept in the fridge to help prevent toxins.

Ivomec drops are given to the birds two weeks before a special race to stimulate the entire system.  I would stagger my treatment, because I’ve found out the first week after the drops the results were average, but the second week tremendous. Just keep a record of the one’s given the drops.

Gem product called Flight Fuel or Vydex Carbosol is very beneficial at this time.  This gives them the added reserve needed to compete.

My training regimen for the big race, I’ve found by experience that two weeks before the special race longer tosses are given and then the last week many short tosses give the best results. A delayed response for some reason is why this method works.   The body of the birds just round out with nice supple buoyant muscle.

I would use many Fabry Ideal pills leading up to the shipping day.  These pills always gave me an edge with the use of an Iodine stimulant such as Gem Impact on the day before shipping.

Day of shipping always feed them before showing the opposite sex to them, by this there mind is on there stomach not sex.  Many of the longer races are shipped for a two day hold over.  In some cases I’ve force fed peanuts by just dropping about 8 down the throat.

The birds not sent to the race should be given a 100 mile toss to simulate a race for the following week, so then you're ready for next weeks race.  These 100 mile birds are treated the same as the returning race birds with the reward of sex and your special feed supplements. I call this the 7 day cycle. The birds know at the end of the 7^th day at least a 100 mile toss or the race so the bird gets mentally prepared.

We all race in the big leagues with no division such as minor league as in other sports, so new flyers please understand you're flying against professionals with their twenty- something year’s experience and you with 20 months. Don’t despair these guys can be had. Our wonderful sport has a way to humble many flyers. I assure you your day will come!

Management of your birds:  Keep a chart on your race team to indicate training and races entered along with notes such as late, hurt, poor recovery, placements on races, molting status, and such.  This will help in your selections each week and you may need to miss a race one week with one and enter the next to give that particular bird a better chance for success.

Forecasting weather can help you with your feeding and also if shipping the trainers on a truck the night before you must be concerned about the next days forecast.  If in doubt, don’t ship.  That’s my rule.  Think about how much time you’ve devoted to these birds and to have one bad toss ruin the season...it’s not worth it.  Race selection is the same if you feel the race will be bad then reduce the numbers of birds your shipping to the race.

A loft in harmony, you can hear the sounds when walking up to the loft, like the birds are singing to you.  Happiness abounds with cooing and actions all about.  All lofts in top conditions will show this.

Good luck.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

SEPTEMBER

     

Racing is now upon us and health is the up most importance.The stress of our feathered athletes can be compromised, so during this time a watchful eye is necessary. Remain vigilant. Being proactive is the course of action.

Below is a typical week and shipping on a Saturday:

Sunday Race Day:

Return from the race a tonic of electrolyte and sugars then later in afternoon a purge with a bacteria fighter, such as avian solution.  Late birds a Fabry Ideal pill can be given. Feed a candy type mix on return then heavier grains for the last meal of the day. This is the day to be watchful and decide the action to be taken for the upcoming week.  If concerned with a few late birds use Tony Treasure Tablet #7984 along with the Fabry Ideal pill #FP006.

Monday:

Day of rest and a Fabry Ideal or Vita King Ideala pill is given in morning. Feed a half depurative and half race mix. Option in water a treatment with canker or respiratory if desired. Bath day for the team. I use Van Hee or Fabry salts in bath. Pink minerals sprinkled on feed.

Tuesday:

Exercise morning & evening not forced, but be observant to watch actions of team when flying.  Expression and energy in flight and on return.  Again a 50% and 50% mix with the feeding.  Canker or respiratory treatment in water.  Pink minerals sprinkled on feed.

Wednesday:

Training day at least an hour on the wing.  Same feed both times of day (50-50) Last day with canker or respiratory treatment.  Pink minerals sprinkled on feed.

Thursday:

Train or exercise depending on time and weather.  Feeding, start to change to the race mix with added safflower.  Use a Probiotic on the feed or given in water.  Gem product called Flight Fuel also given.  Mix with Medpet product Primaquin.

Friday:

Train today if weather is reasonable.  Gem product called Impact is given in morning. The evening gives Jedds B-12 or equivalent.  Feeding use race mix with added safflower and Brewers Yeast. If weather is bad in morning train about 20 miles in late afternoon. I’ve found this method will give the birds a boost of speed.

Saturday shipping day:

Feed ½ rations for the morning feeding less than 225 mile race and only Safflower for the short races in morning only.  Pull the grit. Fresh water given on shipping day many fanciers force water with a catheter type syringe.  Teach your birds to drink in the crate, if you need to modify your crates do so. Introduce raw Spanish peanuts after the 250 mile races.  Weather dictates your feed.  If the weather is cold I’d suggest adding more calories.  Warm weather, add fewer calories. Motivation must be used either by introducing some old birds to the section about an hour before boxing them to go the club if no other motivation is used.

The above is a general race week. Many fanciers have the sliding door method to keep the hens and cocks separate all week then show them just before boxing them to go to the club. This is very good, but requires more time to manage. Training in the real hot beds of racing can be twice a day starting on Tuesday at about 40 miles each time. They fly for money and this can make it worth while.

My motto is: “Young Birds is for young guys and Old Birds is for old guys.”

The use of eye drops and pills can be positive on shipping days and I’ve used them and if you’re winning, you don’t change anything. Many have the birds trained to drink out of the crates on shipping day. This may give you an edge!

You make the call on the time needed for this hobby. The bottom line is enjoying the birds. “Many Roads to Rome.”

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

SEASON REMINDERS-- AUGUST

SEASON REMINDERS FOR AUGUST

Note: Our racing starts in September and flying in Southern California, USA.

Adjust your schedule accordingly.

     Feeding is always somewhat different in regions of America due to weather conditions. Colder climates need more fuel than hot and dry areas of flying. I believe feeding twice a day is the correct way by this method; the crop doesn’t over expand to adjust to the once a day feeding routine. You can adjust the bird's condition a lot faster with twice a day feeding. Lighter seeds are more suited for the hot areas, and heavier seeds for the cold climates. I prefer to feed the light seeds early in the week and more of the corn, peanuts, sunflower at the end of the week during the race season. Some peas in the mix are OK. Safflower late in the week is good to blow them up for that corky, balloon feeling. Rice is a great grain for the hot areas with its absorption of water and the high carbohydrate content. “The great fanciers are experts at feeding.” Try to insure feeding enough for all the birds when in training and use barley as the gauge for monitoring. Some barley left over in the tray is just enough, especially when in the initial training mode. This is the learning period since they need to be rewarded, but not over fed.

     The base mix is a mixture of grains with about 15% - 16% protein. With this, you cut or add to the mixture as needed. I use a Jedds Lite or depurative mix to accomplish this. With this basic mix you can then add your other grains as needed based on conditions such as weather, body feel, mind conditioning, training response, and so on. With experience you’ll get good at it! “Control of the physical condition is very important to make a Champion”. This will get your birds home in race time and make them competitive. Many other things are needed to be on top of the sheet, such as environment, motivation & health.

     August is the month of training and the need to hydrate is very important. There are many products are out there such as electrolytes with glucose, dextrose, grape sugar or honey which are a real asset during this time. Jedds  B12  Liquid (code #9001) or Gem Impact (code #gem020 are a great source of vitamin B-12 and are recommend using at the end of the week. Now, toward the end of the month I use Gem's Flight Fuel (gem014) or Vydex Jet Stream (vx042) which both very high in creatine & ATP muscle building ingredients. This takes some time to go to work, but you’ll feel the difference when handling the birds. Remember, as previously mentioned in the July Season Reminders, another dose of malaria medicine (code #med044) is recommended.

     I’m not going into training your birds, but remember, if you can train on high ground with land marks such as tall buildings this is a benefit for the birds. I believe they use landmarks for the last 30 miles to locate home, but their homing ability takes over after that to the general area. Marking the loft with a big colored X or something on the roof top would be a good landmark for the birds. I’ve even used a strobe light mounted high on the loft roof. Train the straight line for your initial training and release only your birds. Take a map and draw a straight line from the release point to your loft and train along that line the first 30 miles. “This will pay dividends down the road”

     I’ve even grounded the loft by taking a 6 ft piece of steel re-bar and inserted 4 ft into the ground and attached to loft to help with any magnetic electrical interference. “I don’t know if this has any value, but just so you know, I’ve tried a lot of things over the years to gain the desired edge”. Product called Magnetite sold at Jedds (code #9003) is used by some successful fanciers who swear by it!

Medication & stimulant readiness: The items below can be purchased at Jedds Pigeon Supply at www.jedds,com or similar products at your favorite pigeon store.

     Have in your medicine cabinet items such as Tony’s Treasure Tablets (Jedds code #7984) which is a general shot gun pill for all types of issues. Fabry Ideal Pills (code #fp006) or Vita King's Ideala Pills (#1431) a great appetite & fortification pill. Tri-Coli code #VP003 or Spartrix (code #1412 ) are both effective individual treatments for canker. Also, Medizole or Canker-X Plus are great meds to use as a flock treatment. Respiratory items such as Doxi-Tyl (#5005), Saunovil (#1421), and Aureomycin concentrate #1159 as flock treatment. Spiradox tablets code #A2525 or Doxybird tabs #med 020 for the individual bird. For parasite infestation use Mediworm Pills (#med034) or Vetefarm's Worm-out pill (#7974) for the individual bird. Vermisol or Worm-out Gel are great for flock treatments.  Moxidectrin, purchased from Siegel, can also be used for flock treatment. For coccidiosis issues, you can use Endocox (Baycox) code #1452, Sulmet #1103,or Coximed tabs (#med061).

     Ivomec drops code #1161 or #1158 for the air sac mites are also highly recommend to be administered 2 weeks before the first race.

     For adeno virus syndrome, use this time tested product called Adeno Zap (#1830) mixed with Amoxicillin 20% (code #1269) for 7 days when virus presents itself.

     You also need to use respiratory and canker treatments throughout the season. With a stocked medicine cabinet readily available you can take immediate action as you see the condition of the birds worsen. Learn to read your pigeon symptoms and have a mentor to communicate with during this time period.

     Work on your game plan for the races. Peak your race team on race day, NOT in the middle of the week. 

     Remember: health, training, and motivation, along with good birds, win races!

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight