DECEMBER-- EARLY BREEDING

"Selecting and  pairing birds up is done by getting my #1 best male first and then selecting his hen from all my breeder hens."

This concept is desired by many in the modern racing pigeon world today. Living out West is much easier than other parts of the country at this time of year with the weather conditions as they are. In California, we can breed at the beginning of December with not too much of a problem, but other cold and wet zones need to create an environment suited for this early breeding time. Many fanciers use heating elements on the floors like such  used in pig farms in order to elevate the temperature. I even know of some fanciers who breed in their basements and garages using individual nest boxes or cages with heating units. I also would use nest felts (Jedds#L075) in the bowls for warmth. This beneficial for the youngsters for heat and also helps them keep their toe nails in the fabric of the pad which helps prevent deformed legs and crooked keels.

The reason for early breeding to make sure birds are sexually mature for the young bird season and to get them through the molt. Most use a light system before and during the breeding period and again when young are weaned and placed in the young bird section. Some fanciers even mate up when the moon is at a certain cycle like the farmers plant seed.

How to Prepare when Pairing Mates

When pairing I trim each bird (Hen & Cock) around the fecal area with a pair scissors about one inch diameter for better contact when birds are treading. I also give each bird a Fabry Ideal pill (Jedds #FP006) at the time of paring. I have a calcium gluconate liquid (Jedds #1168) or (Md048) in the drinking water at the time, intervals are every other day and I give them Iodine (Jedds #GEM020) at least once a week. I use combination grit such as Jedds 5 Star Mineral Grit on the feed everyday. I use a small bowl of grit for the community breeders and change daily. I have used wheat germ oil on the feed. I also use tobacco stems (Jedds #YA004) I believe this helps the hens to be amorous and settle them down to the nest bowl and her new mate. Vitamins and Amino Acids are given on the feed or the water also. You must do everything possible to get those golden eggs. This is where it all starts.

Mate Selection

Selecting and  pairing birds up is done by getting my #1 best male first and then selecting his hen from all my breeder hens. I already have a good idea who to breed him to since I’ve been studying the breeder list for some time. After the selection is made, I then go to the second best male and continue in the same way. I do watch the age of the pair and try to keep it within the 10 year time frame. For instance: I pair a 7-year-old with a mate no older than a 3 year old. (10 years between them). For birds bred for stock, this rule isn’t as important.

I do my best to compensate pairs to get the most balanced animal for flying purposes. I first mate them for flying then I re-mate for potential breeders after they raise a few rounds of youngsters. By this method, I’m able to maintain the lines within the families and continue to cross in generations forward for that hybrid vigor. I’ve proven this many times over by studying my breeding records.

Useful Tips Once Birds are in Nest Boxes

Now I lock in each pair in the nest box and if you’re an established loft you have some of the males who already own that nest box from previous years. I do leave the cocks in the same box if possible. This makes pairing and teaching the new pairs much easier in a community loft so at the end of the day, most of the pairs have been selected. I then start letting one pair out at a time to fly out into the aviary and check out all that’s happening. This calms the pair down and I leave them out about 20 minutes or so, then I lock that pair up and turn out another for them to calm down and study their new surroundings. Also, no two pairs are out together. At the second day I may have two pair out at the same time, but usually with only established males who own their nest box from the previous year. I have an 8-pair compartment breeding section along with 6 individual breeding compartments. This community method is done until the hen lays her set of eggs and by that time with the cock bird driving the hen the only thing on his mind his chasing her back into the box where I have feed for both. I have a community feeder for all the 8 pairs to select from (along with common water bowl) but as I said before, the males won’t even let the hens eat outside their nest box. After the final eggs have been laid. I then start to turn out 2 to 3 pair at a time and soon begin to locate their nest box without any hassles. Then all is much easier, but the first 2 weeks for you are tough.

Supplements Used in Water

I have something in the water all the time, but no medication. It changes with the bird’s condition and needs. I add, at least every other day, calcium liquid during the first pairing cycle. I use a breeding formula at least twice a week. I also use Gem product called Impact one day a week and use Bragg's AppleCider Vinegar mixed with Jedds Grape Sugar. Additionally, VBG Avian Solution is given with many of the supplements. Mixture of many grits is given fresh daily. I use Nature Block pick stone crumbled up with the grit daily. B-12 Liquid (#9001) is given once a week. Always make sure to give electrolytes once youngsters are about 10 days old. Since breeders for some reason begin to eat a lot of grit and drink in excess when pumping the young, a wet nest can occur so with the use of electrolytes (#1136) the problem lessens. I use More Wins or WinsMore for my all purpose vitamin use, again, at least once a week. 

Feeding

I feed twice a day and change the water each time along with the additives. My mixture is a about a 16% protein with small corn until the eggs hatch and then I increase the protein with the Breeder Protein Pack from Jedds, which is a 25 lb bag composed of different peas, vetch and mung beans. This is given at a 1/3^rd mixture with your standard feed each meal. 

Additional Medication and Life after Weaning 

I have also used Fabry Ideal Pills for the babies in the nest on a continued basis if you have time to spend. I bathe the breeder birds once a week. I use the web bowls with the liners and tobacco stems. I would recommend a pill treatment for canker after the 2^nd round of eggs and use either Spartrix or Tri-Coli Stop Pills for one day, when birds are setting the eggs and not when feeding. I have a nursery section for the babies. When they're about 23 days old, I remove them from their parents and they start their life knowing early how to drink and eat on the floor of the section where no bullies will beat them up. I have garlic or VBG in the water containers for the babies to locate easier and the standard feed with peas is used at this time. I use the Ideal pills when moving them into the nursery section and dunk their heads in the water bowl at that time.

My method has been to always change parings each year searching for the pre-potent bird in the loft and when you find him or her use as the foundation bird and then you will have something. This will start your way to the top.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

NOVEMBER-- PREPARING FOR THE UPCOMING YEAR

"This is the time of the year to re-think or evaluate your past year's results and take action"

While fresh on your mind please write down what worked for you and which items you need to change. The good and bad need to be noted so you may not make the same mistake again; the fancier who makes the least mistakes usually wins. The other issue to remember is most of the time, the best young birds are your best old birds, but did you give them a proper chance to perform? Many flyers are beaten before the season begins because of the preparations not given to the team. It’s very easy to blame the birds, but please look within yourself to see if you gave them a proper chance to perform. If you need to hold some over for old birds, do so.

Lofts need to be reviewed. Check the ventilation. It may be you started out the season well with the temperatures normal to high and then the cold dampness began and your performances diminished. Weather conditions will change the form in your birds. Key to a winning loft is air spinning and moving out, but not a draft over the perches or nest boxes. Go into your loft with a lit cigarette or cigar and check the air flow to see the directions the smoke leaves the loft. Changes may need to be done to the loft.

Breeder birds need to be reviewed and scrutinized to judge the past performances. Check to see how many birds raised out of pair and how many are left and did any do well in the races or show pen.

In racing, give the breeders two seasons to prove them and if nothing has resulted get rid of them, but first check and see if you ever mated them to a proven good one. Sometimes this will give you the answer for why they didn’t do well. Many times one of the parent birds is worthy and the other is marginal, so before the culling begins please check this out. Many fanciers mate a good one to a fair one and breed more mediocre. If by nothing else take the best 6 males and the best 6 hens and mate them together, with this your odds are much better.

Let me get back on track now. Handle your birds and feel the muscle and vitality in each bird. You can feel the electricity in the bird, like the blood is flowing like a river through them. Check the spirit of the bird like Piet DeWeerd would do by pulling the beak, although there are tricks to that also. Some birds may let you pull the beak and others don’t. It could be they will let you do it at there own will. Like an arm wrestler, if he wants you to pull his arm down he will let you but if not, then good luck. I found some of birds need to be held loosely to give them the feeling of being able to get away. Let one foot loose then try pulling the beak, some will give you more fight this way. Some fanciers can do the same test by pulling upward on the wing butts when holding the bird in hand and the resistance felt gives them the same spirit test. Some veteran fanciers can look at the head of the bird and read the same characteristics as given above. I’ve witnessed some fanciers with a squeeze of the wing butt joint muscle with there thumb and index finger to see the reaction of the head in pain moving back and forth to test them for a reaction, thinking this another good way. I haven’t felt this method has any merit for picking the good birds.

Go in your loft and handle the performance birds for the last year and compare them to the losers and see what the difference is. Sometimes its so glaring you can’t miss it. Check the muscle development, vent attachment, outer wing lengths, throat color and quietness of breathing, size of each, wing butt thickness, forearm length, vitality, keel bone thickness, feather, head shape, sharpness of eye and overall alertness. You will gain much needed knowledge that will help you in the near future. Your best bird for the series will be aerodynamic and balanced for sure. This gives you the standard to look for.

When paring, your goal is to get the best balanced bird for its easier for them to perform in the air when the distance races are upon us. Think of compensation to achieve this goal; always mate with this in mind when paring up the birds. A mid size bird with balance and soft muscle with loads of vitality is the goal.

I mate up on paper first, trying to remember the way they handle and paring them the way I remember them. Then I go out again and again and decide which pair to couple. Many times I’ve changed my mind after handling the birds. Remember, this is great way to imprint on your mind the breeder birds you have in your loft.

If unhappy with your breeding birds then begin searching out some better ones. I can only suggest when buying a breeder from a known seller ask him if the parents have bred winners or are they winners. If you can review the pedigree then check on all generations to see if parents, G-parents and G-G- Parents are winners or have bred winners. If all have proven themselves then the percentage has risen on said bird. If the seller is a responsible breeder he will give you a guarantee of satisfaction on arrival. He cannot guarantee you the bird will breed a winner, but the bird should have all the necessary tools to be a good breeding bird. There are just too many variables in pigeon flying to make a statement as such.

It all starts in the breeding loft and many are defeated right from the beginning without changing anything. You must learn and adjust or you will stagnate and forever be in the bottom third of your race sheet.

This is the month to treat the breeders even if all is healthy to the naked eye. I like to treat for canker before breeding time for 5 consecutive days with one of the many canker medications. I also give the breeding hens a 10 day treatment of Oxytetracyline (Terramycin) with a follow up of some type of probiotics. If all else is looking well then I’m ready in early part of December to mate up the birds.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

OCTOBER-- MOTIVATION TIME

Dedicated to mostly the Racing Fanciers, this is the time of year for the racing enthusiast since the money is on the line!  If all is equal like your competitors such as training & health, then the key to beating them is by motivating the birds to arrive quicker.  If you're not already flying a separated system, then you must change or you won’t win on a regular basis.  Show old birds to your young bird section on the day of shipping about an hour before crating, to arouse both hens & cocks or take some flat boards and lean them against a corners of the section with a nest bowl inside.  Make up some small boxes and set in the loft to get there sexual excitement going. Some will take to it and then observe who is the most excited.

Training should be done in smaller groups of 3-5 birds separated. One day let the cocks out first then the hens.  If possible, train them late or early evening only about 20 miles to get the speed up; you’ll find they fly about 60 mph or faster.  They understand the sun is going down so they bust butt to get home. Separate the sexes if possible with a solid divided partition and play a radio in the loft to muffle the sounds of calling there mates. They have super hearing and you verify this by listing to them in the middle of the night calling one another. That’s a bad sign, so steps need to be taken, such as the radio playing and darkening the loft at night. Street light with it glaring in to the loft can be upsetting also, so an easy fix is lay a sheet or something over the front of the window until sunrise. Change can be good but don’t change the regular routine of feeding that must remain the same.

Weather changes getting cooler at this time of year and raw Spanish peanuts or hulled sunflower seed should be given to help them with the longer distance races. Higher fat content at this time of year is beneficial. Both best kept in the fridge to help prevent toxins.

Ivomec drops are given to the birds two weeks before a special race to stimulate the entire system.  I would stagger my treatment, because I’ve found out the first week after the drops the results were average, but the second week tremendous. Just keep a record of the one’s given the drops.

Gem product called Flight Fuel or Vydex Carbosol is very beneficial at this time.  This gives them the added reserve needed to compete.

My training regimen for the big race, I’ve found by experience that two weeks before the special race longer tosses are given and then the last week many short tosses give the best results. A delayed response for some reason is why this method works.   The body of the birds just round out with nice supple buoyant muscle.

I would use many Fabry Ideal pills leading up to the shipping day.  These pills always gave me an edge with the use of an Iodine stimulant such as Gem Impact on the day before shipping.

Day of shipping always feed them before showing the opposite sex to them, by this there mind is on there stomach not sex.  Many of the longer races are shipped for a two day hold over.  In some cases I’ve force fed peanuts by just dropping about 8 down the throat.

The birds not sent to the race should be given a 100 mile toss to simulate a race for the following week, so then you're ready for next weeks race.  These 100 mile birds are treated the same as the returning race birds with the reward of sex and your special feed supplements. I call this the 7 day cycle. The birds know at the end of the 7^th day at least a 100 mile toss or the race so the bird gets mentally prepared.

We all race in the big leagues with no division such as minor league as in other sports, so new flyers please understand you're flying against professionals with their twenty- something year’s experience and you with 20 months. Don’t despair these guys can be had. Our wonderful sport has a way to humble many flyers. I assure you your day will come!

Management of your birds:  Keep a chart on your race team to indicate training and races entered along with notes such as late, hurt, poor recovery, placements on races, molting status, and such.  This will help in your selections each week and you may need to miss a race one week with one and enter the next to give that particular bird a better chance for success.

Forecasting weather can help you with your feeding and also if shipping the trainers on a truck the night before you must be concerned about the next days forecast.  If in doubt, don’t ship.  That’s my rule.  Think about how much time you’ve devoted to these birds and to have one bad toss ruin the season...it’s not worth it.  Race selection is the same if you feel the race will be bad then reduce the numbers of birds your shipping to the race.

A loft in harmony, you can hear the sounds when walking up to the loft, like the birds are singing to you.  Happiness abounds with cooing and actions all about.  All lofts in top conditions will show this.

Good luck.

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

SEPTEMBER

     

Racing is now upon us and health is the up most importance.The stress of our feathered athletes can be compromised, so during this time a watchful eye is necessary. Remain vigilant. Being proactive is the course of action.

Below is a typical week and shipping on a Saturday:

Sunday Race Day:

Return from the race a tonic of electrolyte and sugars then later in afternoon a purge with a bacteria fighter, such as avian solution.  Late birds a Fabry Ideal pill can be given. Feed a candy type mix on return then heavier grains for the last meal of the day. This is the day to be watchful and decide the action to be taken for the upcoming week.  If concerned with a few late birds use Tony Treasure Tablet #7984 along with the Fabry Ideal pill #FP006.

Monday:

Day of rest and a Fabry Ideal or Vita King Ideala pill is given in morning. Feed a half depurative and half race mix. Option in water a treatment with canker or respiratory if desired. Bath day for the team. I use Van Hee or Fabry salts in bath. Pink minerals sprinkled on feed.

Tuesday:

Exercise morning & evening not forced, but be observant to watch actions of team when flying.  Expression and energy in flight and on return.  Again a 50% and 50% mix with the feeding.  Canker or respiratory treatment in water.  Pink minerals sprinkled on feed.

Wednesday:

Training day at least an hour on the wing.  Same feed both times of day (50-50) Last day with canker or respiratory treatment.  Pink minerals sprinkled on feed.

Thursday:

Train or exercise depending on time and weather.  Feeding, start to change to the race mix with added safflower.  Use a Probiotic on the feed or given in water.  Gem product called Flight Fuel also given.  Mix with Medpet product Primaquin.

Friday:

Train today if weather is reasonable.  Gem product called Impact is given in morning. The evening gives Jedds B-12 or equivalent.  Feeding use race mix with added safflower and Brewers Yeast. If weather is bad in morning train about 20 miles in late afternoon. I’ve found this method will give the birds a boost of speed.

Saturday shipping day:

Feed ½ rations for the morning feeding less than 225 mile race and only Safflower for the short races in morning only.  Pull the grit. Fresh water given on shipping day many fanciers force water with a catheter type syringe.  Teach your birds to drink in the crate, if you need to modify your crates do so. Introduce raw Spanish peanuts after the 250 mile races.  Weather dictates your feed.  If the weather is cold I’d suggest adding more calories.  Warm weather, add fewer calories. Motivation must be used either by introducing some old birds to the section about an hour before boxing them to go the club if no other motivation is used.

The above is a general race week. Many fanciers have the sliding door method to keep the hens and cocks separate all week then show them just before boxing them to go to the club. This is very good, but requires more time to manage. Training in the real hot beds of racing can be twice a day starting on Tuesday at about 40 miles each time. They fly for money and this can make it worth while.

My motto is: “Young Birds is for young guys and Old Birds is for old guys.”

The use of eye drops and pills can be positive on shipping days and I’ve used them and if you’re winning, you don’t change anything. Many have the birds trained to drink out of the crates on shipping day. This may give you an edge!

You make the call on the time needed for this hobby. The bottom line is enjoying the birds. “Many Roads to Rome.”

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight

SEASON REMINDERS-- AUGUST

SEASON REMINDERS FOR AUGUST

Note: Our racing starts in September and flying in Southern California, USA.

Adjust your schedule accordingly.

     Feeding is always somewhat different in regions of America due to weather conditions. Colder climates need more fuel than hot and dry areas of flying. I believe feeding twice a day is the correct way by this method; the crop doesn’t over expand to adjust to the once a day feeding routine. You can adjust the bird's condition a lot faster with twice a day feeding. Lighter seeds are more suited for the hot areas, and heavier seeds for the cold climates. I prefer to feed the light seeds early in the week and more of the corn, peanuts, sunflower at the end of the week during the race season. Some peas in the mix are OK. Safflower late in the week is good to blow them up for that corky, balloon feeling. Rice is a great grain for the hot areas with its absorption of water and the high carbohydrate content. “The great fanciers are experts at feeding.” Try to insure feeding enough for all the birds when in training and use barley as the gauge for monitoring. Some barley left over in the tray is just enough, especially when in the initial training mode. This is the learning period since they need to be rewarded, but not over fed.

     The base mix is a mixture of grains with about 15% - 16% protein. With this, you cut or add to the mixture as needed. I use a Jedds Lite or depurative mix to accomplish this. With this basic mix you can then add your other grains as needed based on conditions such as weather, body feel, mind conditioning, training response, and so on. With experience you’ll get good at it! “Control of the physical condition is very important to make a Champion”. This will get your birds home in race time and make them competitive. Many other things are needed to be on top of the sheet, such as environment, motivation & health.

     August is the month of training and the need to hydrate is very important. There are many products are out there such as electrolytes with glucose, dextrose, grape sugar or honey which are a real asset during this time. Jedds  B12  Liquid (code #9001) or Gem Impact (code #gem020 are a great source of vitamin B-12 and are recommend using at the end of the week. Now, toward the end of the month I use Gem's Flight Fuel (gem014) or Vydex Jet Stream (vx042) which both very high in creatine & ATP muscle building ingredients. This takes some time to go to work, but you’ll feel the difference when handling the birds. Remember, as previously mentioned in the July Season Reminders, another dose of malaria medicine (code #med044) is recommended.

     I’m not going into training your birds, but remember, if you can train on high ground with land marks such as tall buildings this is a benefit for the birds. I believe they use landmarks for the last 30 miles to locate home, but their homing ability takes over after that to the general area. Marking the loft with a big colored X or something on the roof top would be a good landmark for the birds. I’ve even used a strobe light mounted high on the loft roof. Train the straight line for your initial training and release only your birds. Take a map and draw a straight line from the release point to your loft and train along that line the first 30 miles. “This will pay dividends down the road”

     I’ve even grounded the loft by taking a 6 ft piece of steel re-bar and inserted 4 ft into the ground and attached to loft to help with any magnetic electrical interference. “I don’t know if this has any value, but just so you know, I’ve tried a lot of things over the years to gain the desired edge”. Product called Magnetite sold at Jedds (code #9003) is used by some successful fanciers who swear by it!

Medication & stimulant readiness: The items below can be purchased at Jedds Pigeon Supply at www.jedds,com or similar products at your favorite pigeon store.

     Have in your medicine cabinet items such as Tony’s Treasure Tablets (Jedds code #7984) which is a general shot gun pill for all types of issues. Fabry Ideal Pills (code #fp006) or Vita King's Ideala Pills (#1431) a great appetite & fortification pill. Tri-Coli code #VP003 or Spartrix (code #1412 ) are both effective individual treatments for canker. Also, Medizole or Canker-X Plus are great meds to use as a flock treatment. Respiratory items such as Doxi-Tyl (#5005), Saunovil (#1421), and Aureomycin concentrate #1159 as flock treatment. Spiradox tablets code #A2525 or Doxybird tabs #med 020 for the individual bird. For parasite infestation use Mediworm Pills (#med034) or Vetefarm's Worm-out pill (#7974) for the individual bird. Vermisol or Worm-out Gel are great for flock treatments.  Moxidectrin, purchased from Siegel, can also be used for flock treatment. For coccidiosis issues, you can use Endocox (Baycox) code #1452, Sulmet #1103,or Coximed tabs (#med061).

     Ivomec drops code #1161 or #1158 for the air sac mites are also highly recommend to be administered 2 weeks before the first race.

     For adeno virus syndrome, use this time tested product called Adeno Zap (#1830) mixed with Amoxicillin 20% (code #1269) for 7 days when virus presents itself.

     You also need to use respiratory and canker treatments throughout the season. With a stocked medicine cabinet readily available you can take immediate action as you see the condition of the birds worsen. Learn to read your pigeon symptoms and have a mentor to communicate with during this time period.

     Work on your game plan for the races. Peak your race team on race day, NOT in the middle of the week. 

     Remember: health, training, and motivation, along with good birds, win races!

Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight