"Selecting and pairing birds up is done by getting my #1 best male first and then selecting his hen from all my breeder hens."
This concept is desired by many in the
modern racing pigeon world today. Living out West is much easier
than other parts of the country at this time of year with the weather
conditions as they are. In California, we can breed at the beginning of
December with not too much of a problem, but other cold and wet zones
need to create an environment suited for this early breeding time.
Many fanciers use heating elements on the floors like such used in pig
farms in order to elevate the temperature. I even know of some fanciers who breed in
their basements and garages using individual nest boxes or cages with
heating units. I also would use nest felts (Jedds#L075) in the bowls for warmth. This beneficial for the
youngsters for heat and also helps them keep their toe nails in the fabric of the
pad which helps prevent deformed legs and crooked keels.
The reason for early breeding to make
sure birds are sexually mature for the young bird season and to get
them through the molt. Most use a light system before and during the
breeding period and again when young are weaned and placed in the
young bird section. Some fanciers even mate up when the moon is at a
certain cycle like the farmers plant seed.
How to Prepare when Pairing Mates
When pairing I trim each bird (Hen &
Cock) around the fecal area with a pair scissors about one inch
diameter for better contact when birds are treading. I also give
each bird a Fabry Ideal pill (Jedds #FP006) at the time of paring. I
have a calcium gluconate liquid (Jedds #1168) or (Md048) in the
drinking water at the time, intervals are every other day and I give
them Iodine (Jedds #GEM020) at least once a week. I use
combination grit such as Jedds 5 Star Mineral Grit on the feed
everyday. I use a small bowl of grit for the community breeders and
change daily. I have used wheat germ oil on the feed. I also
use tobacco stems (Jedds #YA004) I believe this helps the hens to be
amorous and settle them down to the nest bowl and her new mate.
Vitamins and Amino Acids are given on the feed or the water also.
You must do everything possible to get those golden eggs. This is
where it all starts.
Mate Selection
Selecting and pairing birds up is done by getting my #1 best male first and then selecting his hen from all my
breeder hens. I already have a good idea who to breed him to since
I’ve been studying the breeder list for some time. After the
selection is made, I then go to the second best male and continue in
the same way. I do watch the age of the pair and try to keep it
within the 10 year time frame. For instance: I pair a 7-year-old with a mate no older
than a 3 year old. (10 years between them). For birds bred for stock, this rule isn’t as important.
I do my best to compensate pairs to get the most balanced animal for flying purposes. I first mate
them for flying then I re-mate for potential breeders after they raise a few
rounds of youngsters. By this method, I’m able to
maintain the lines within the families and continue to cross in
generations forward for that hybrid vigor. I’ve proven this many
times over by studying my breeding records.
Useful Tips Once Birds are in Nest Boxes
Now I lock in each pair in the nest box
and if you’re an established loft you have some of the males who
already own that nest box from previous years. I do leave the cocks
in the same box if possible. This makes pairing and teaching the new
pairs much easier in a community loft so at the end of the day, most of the pairs have been selected. I then start letting one pair
out at a time to fly out into the aviary and check out all that’s
happening. This calms the pair down and I leave them out about 20
minutes or so, then I lock that pair up and turn out another for them
to calm down and study their new surroundings. Also, no two pairs are out
together. At the second day I may have two pair out at the same
time, but usually with only established males who own their nest box
from the previous year. I have an 8-pair compartment breeding
section along with 6 individual breeding compartments. This
community method is done until the hen lays her set of eggs and by
that time with the cock bird driving the hen the only thing on his
mind his chasing her back into the box where I have feed for both. I have a community feeder for all the 8 pairs to select from (along
with common water bowl) but as I said before, the males won’t even let the
hens eat outside their nest box. After the final eggs have been laid. I then start to turn out 2 to 3 pair at a time and soon begin to locate their nest box without any hassles. Then all is much
easier, but the first 2 weeks for you are tough.
Supplements Used in Water
I have something in the water all the
time, but no medication. It changes with the bird’s condition and
needs. I add, at least every other day, calcium liquid during the
first pairing cycle. I use a breeding formula at least twice a week.
I also use Gem product called Impact one day a week and use Bragg's AppleCider Vinegar mixed with Jedds Grape Sugar. Additionally, VBG Avian Solution is
given with many of the supplements. Mixture of many grits is given
fresh daily. I use Nature Block pick stone crumbled
up with the grit daily. B-12 Liquid (#9001) is given once a week. Always make sure to give electrolytes once youngsters are about 10 days old. Since breeders for some
reason begin to eat a lot of grit and drink in excess when
pumping the young, a wet nest can occur so with the use of
electrolytes (#1136) the problem lessens. I use More Wins or WinsMore for my all purpose vitamin use, again, at least once a week.
Feeding
I
feed twice a day and change the water each time along with the
additives. My mixture is a about a 16% protein with small corn until
the eggs hatch and then I increase the protein with the Breeder
Protein Pack from Jedds, which is a 25 lb bag composed of different peas, vetch and mung
beans. This is given at a 1/3rd mixture with your
standard feed each meal.
Additional Medication and Life after Weaning
I have also used Fabry Ideal Pills for the babies
in the nest on a continued basis if you have time to spend. I
bathe the breeder birds once a week. I use the web bowls with the
liners and tobacco stems. I would recommend a pill treatment for
canker after the 2nd round of eggs and use either Spartrix
or Tri-Coli Stop Pills for one day, when birds are setting the eggs and not
when feeding. I have a nursery section for the babies. When they're about 23
days old, I remove them from their parents and they start their life knowing
early how to drink and eat on the floor of the section where no
bullies will beat them up. I have garlic or VBG in the water
containers for the babies to locate easier and the standard feed with
peas is used at this time. I use the Ideal pills when moving them
into the nursery section and dunk their heads in the water bowl at
that time.
My method has been to always change
parings each year searching for the pre-potent bird in the loft and
when you find him or her use as the foundation bird and then you will have
something. This will start your way to the top.
Yours in the sport,
Greg McKnight
