Friday, April 10, 2015

APRIL-- SPRING FLOWERS AND PIGEON POWERS




Old birds season is upon us and many are racing or are about to. Power building is a part of the goal for the long season ahead. Do not forget that creatine, carnitine and ATP muscle builder products take time to work on the animal, so start your system three weeks before the desired time for the 300 mile races to begin. I have used Gem Flight Fuel and Vydex Jet Stream, both excellent products with a proven track record. After a three week program of four times a week, you’ll notice the body reserve while handling your birds to improve greatly. You should continue to administer this twice a week in your maintenance racing program. Your feeding program should also be considered, especially when the longer distance races are upon you; added corn and raw Spanish peanuts are another method to help with the body reserves. Amino acids toward the end of the week are also recommended, and I use A-Lyte or Amino Stress.

Ivomec the birds for the dreaded air sac mite that inhibits their form. Air Sac mites and worms are a sure sign when the birds remain skeletal when handling, so be sure to treat them. One treatment you could use is the Medpet worm-out tablets (code med034). I follow up with a two day treatment of baking soda; I use two teaspoons per gallon of water. Your droppings will firm up and the down feathers should appear on the droppings.

Canker treatments every three weeks are a normal cycle unless you have a microscope to check for this ailment. I have seen the Tri-Coli tablets (VP003) work outstandingly well. Also, if you administer them on the following night of the race, you may want to use flock treatment products, such as Med015 or Med037. Both of these treatments are in the Zole product's family and work very well.

Respiratory treatments are used before and during the season if again, you do not have a microscope to do a throat swab. Then a normal routine would be every three weeks during the season. If you have a come back race this would be a good time to do this with a full five day treatment. Some signs to look for are a wide rounded breath hole, an actively breathing/laboring hard, color of throat, color of the lower rim of the beak, color of the tip of the tongue and the slime. Also take notice of potential air bubbles in the outer perimeter of the eye. As well as, the body skeletal with no ballooning effect, mouths open when returning from exercise. Lastly, be sure to check for lack of down feathers on droppings, after checking in the morning from a good night's rest. When handling the birds, put their beak into your ear and listen for crackling sounds. Sometimes you can do this by holding the bird's nostril with your thumb and index finger for about thirty seconds; listening to the sounds is beneficial in determining respiratory ailments. All of these are methods to use without a microscope to verify certain ailments.

Pseudo Malaria is wide spread in the western and southern areas, so I would treat this with a ten day (or more) treatment of Medpet Primaquin (Med044). I have found that this enhances my bird's overall performance and have experienced no negative issues with it. I follow up with Formula 72 or Red Cell, both are full of Iron and benefit the bird greatly after treatment.

My recommendation with training is to have the birds on a seven day cycle. If the birds are not coming home from the race, then a hundred mile trainer for the rest of them is beneficial for the longer races ahead. This will prepare the birds physically and mentally. The birds will expect this treatment after awhile. You will be pleasantly surprised with the results seen in their performance.

Breeders and young ones need special attention during this time of the year, so review them, as I know your focus may be on the old bird team. Most of the breeders are on multiple rounds at this time of the year so viewing the nest box for any concerns, like excess water around the nest bowl or just stressed out parents is important. Rejuvenation with vitamins and supplements during this time is necessary. Checking the weight of each bird with a quick handling will give you a read if things are not right. I would administer each one with a Fabry Ideal pill while going through the breeders. In some cases you can give them a Spartrix or Tri-Coli pill. Also, sometimes separation is a good idea for a week and then you can make decisions to change mates or re-mate the same pair; this will help the stressed out pair. I use a product from Jedd’s called Breeder Protein Pack, a high power protein grain mixture (20.5%), when breeders are feeding the youngsters. The cost is $19.95 plus a shipping rate of $15.50 in a large flat rate priority box anywhere in America. I mix 30% of this to my standard mix during the feeding time, which helps with the feather growing process. I use a product from GEM called The-Pax about three days a week on my second round of youngsters and was very delighted with the results. Another product I use from GEM is Impact, which I always administer on Fridays. I do this on Friday only because this is the day I am programmed to administer the product.

This is a personal story from over 40 years ago regarding B-12 vitamin and when hired by Mr. Will Waterhouse of Bekaert fame: one day I was noticing the breeders with what seemed to be a crust on the side of the beak and was concerned what it was. Knowing it wasn’t a respiratory problem and all else on the bird looked well, out of the corner of my eye I noticed a bird eating droppings and annoyingly said, “You got to be kidding me! What’s up with that?!” I thought it had to be a deficiency of some kind, so I viewed our personal library of pigeon books and read in one written by Old Hand about this issue and the result was B-12 deficiency, so I added pellets to the mix after making sure it had the added B-12 on them, and the problem then was cured. My understanding is that B-12 is a needed supplement by all birds and it doesn’t come in feed or water. The birds digest and simulate it and then excrete in their droppings, which is the main reason they were eating them. Now, to this day I give the birds a B-12 supplement one day a week throughout the year. My advice to you is having this in your program of management!

Your environment is special and it doesn’t have to look like a castle, but when entering the smell and sounds are of joy to the birds and you. You can hear their contentment from their cooing and activity in the loft. They just glow and when handling, the bloom flies all over your shirt like a round flour bomb went off on it. The smell is clean with no sourness in the loft. The birds like dark little corner areas to relax and to feel secure with no intruders bothering them. Some fanciers put a shade or cover half of the nest box for keeping the birds in the dark, if flying a natural system. Some double widowhood fliers even use a curtain that they pull down to keep the birds calm during the season. Air movement is very important with turbulent air with no drafts over the perches or nest boxes. Creating the proper loft is essential; validation is when you fly well the entire season in any weather conditions and the change of season doesn’t affect your performance. One trick is when changing your grit container. If it comes out in clumps, it means your loft is too damp. Take a cigarette into the loft and watch the smoke pass through the air which will give you a pattern to adjust for airflow.

Giving your birds the best chance to win is your part, then it’s up to the birds to perform to the best of there ability. At the end of the season ask yourself if you did everything possible to achieve victory. Consider this when your culling the team.

Yours in the sport,


Greg McKnight

























Friday, January 9, 2015

SEASON REMINDERS-- JANUARY


BREEDING TIME

"This is my basic breeding time method that has been used successfully for over 40 years"


Many birds are paired or going to be soon. Supplements are essential at this time, such as, Calcium for egg production and all purpose vitamins. Remember to check and see if you cut the feathers around the fecal area well, as I previously stated in the reminders. If not, take scissors and trim them up a little closer. I normally would think it would be the male’s problem for not fertilizing the egg, but it could be just the contact when mating.  Sometimes I use the Medpet cock fertility pill every other day during this time until the hen lays her second egg;  wheat germ oil is also beneficial on the feed.

When a hen is not laying eggs, I use a product called Fish Mox: code number 1124 from Jedds.com, which is a 250 mg capsule of Amoxicillin. I dump out ½ of the contents and refill the other up with pink Vita Mineral powder (DES003), giving the treatment for 10 days, a pill a day.  If you're not experienced giving a pill to a bird, just dip the pill in water before dosing the bird. Doing so helps the bird swallow the pill. This has worked very well for me and others for treating a bacterial infection in the egg track of a hen. I separate the hen at this time for treatment and re-mate her soon after treatment.

Nest material is important and using the nest pads is always beneficial at this time. The added warmth and softness can stop breakage of eggs and definitely stops crooked keels. It also prevents leg deformity, especially once a young has hatched.  I use tobacco stems, straws, or even pine needles, but I am careful when using the latter, for mice or rodents may have urinated on them. I would recommend washing them and letting those dry before using the nest bowls.

Checking the eggs at about five days old is done at this time by taking a flash light in to the loft and holding it in the upright position. One by one I hold each egg over the flashlight to see if blood vessels are starting to form.  If I find that no vessels have formed I may wait another couple of days and view again. If not, I toss the eggs and start the pair over again.  Be careful when doing this procedure with some of these couples. They can be so defensive that you may break an egg when retrieving them from under the bird or putting them back.  I sometimes make some notes about the color or surface area of the egg shell at this time.  If I find a rough surface, I may use a calcium pill for that particular hen because they may be calcium deficient.  Jedd's part number is 1262 and I give a ½ pill per hen at this time, at three different times before she lays.   

Grit and pick stones are essential in my program to give the birds the added calcium needed to grow the egg.  I also sprinkle any of the fine powdered Vita Minerals on the grain about every other day.  I’ve used lettuce and carrots in the past on a one day a week basis, but now I use a product called Carrot Corn, a vegetable formulated pellet.  I also use a product called 5 Star Grit and mix at least every other day on the feed. The product is a combination of grits, pellets, seeds, egg food and minerals of all kinds;  remember to give fresh grit daily.  I use smaller containers and add fresh mix to them everyday; which the birds go for readily. I use a mineral powder, which is a replacement for any loss of electrolytes, a product from JeddS call Mineral salt (#1123).  Remember this quote, “Bring the outside in” for these prisoner birds.

After hatching, I sometimes use a Versele Laga pellet called Success corn for the first week of the parent birds milking stage.  This helps at this particular time with its 25% protein and easily digestible pellet; it is very good for the new hatchlings.

Water supplements are necessary, and I have described in my previous Season Reminders that I use something in the water daily.  B-12 & Iodine are beneficial at this time, along with Calcium liquid.  Some type of all purpose vitamins twice a week, along with a breeding formula. Breeders edge is one that is full of amino acids. VBG (Avian Solution) or Bragg’s apple cider vinegar is some times used at the same time with your vitamin supplement. Electrolytes are given when the babies are starting to be fed a grain mixture once or twice a week.

The grains given vary with the cycle of the birds.  My basic mixture is a 16% protein with a candy treat mix of about 10%.  When the babies are in the milking stage, about the first week of their lives, I use the basic mixture mentioned above, with added Safflower at about 20% with some pellets added in.  When the babies are now being fed a grain mixture, I use the basic mixture mentioned above with a product from Jedds named Breeders Protein Pack, which is a 25# bag for about $19. Then you should mix 1/3rd of this mixture to the basic mix until out of the nest. This will increase the protein content at this stage of their lives and gives them and the parents the added protein for the feather growth needed. In the past, I have added some of the protein pellets to the mixture, but the birds will eat the grain before the pellets, so I got disgusted after a few weeks and gave that up.  Remember the Jedds 5 Star Grit I use has a round pellet in it and is loaded with all that’s needed. When using a pellet, I like the round shape ones. Also, I think the birds are fooled thinking they're a type of pea. 

Special touch sometimes used, such as Fabry pills, given to the babies in the nest to help the development until taken out of the nest. In some cases, some pairs will have a wet nest around the nest bowl, which is usually caused by the parents drinking excess water. I think this is due to lack of salt or an electrolyte imbalance, so the use of the mineral salt and electrolytes are beneficial at this time and usually correct the problem.  I have at times when all the birds are on eggs, given them a five day treatment of Medizole (Med 037) for canker, well before hatching time. 

If a nest is wet you must keep it dry and figure what the problem is, especially when only one pair is showing this result.  Most of time it’s a result of too much water intake so the above steps should be effective with this, but please clean the box out and use a drying powder such as floor white from Natural code  (#1504)

I hope and wish you all a good season and remember: whomever makes the least mistakes wins the race!

Happy New Year.


Yours in the sport,

Greg McKnight